Azelaic Acid: Benefits and How to Add It to Your Routine
Slug: azelaic-acid-benefits-how-to-usePillar: Lifestyle > BeautyKeyword: azelaic acid benefits skincare routineExcerpt: Azelaic acid brightens, calms redness and clears blemishes without the irritation of stronger actives. Here is how it works and how to fit it into your skincare routine.
Azelaic acid is one of the most versatile and underrated ingredients in skincare. It brightens uneven skin tone, reduces redness, clears blemishes and is gentle enough for sensitive skin and safe during pregnancy. Demand has risen 49% in the past year and it now generates over 165,000 searches per month — and for good reason. Here is everything you need to know about using it effectively.
What Is Azelaic Acid?
Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring dicarboxylic acid found in grains like wheat, rye and barley. In skincare, it is typically synthesised for consistency. It works on multiple levels simultaneously: it inhibits the enzyme tyrosinase (which controls melanin production), has anti-inflammatory properties, and exerts antimicrobial effects against the bacteria that cause acne.
What Does Azelaic Acid Do for Your Skin?
Brightens Hyperpigmentation and Post-Acne Marks
By inhibiting tyrosinase, azelaic acid gradually fades dark spots, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (the marks left after spots heal) and melasma. It is one of the few ingredients recommended by dermatologists for melasma during pregnancy when other actives are off-limits.
Reduces Redness and Rosacea
Azelaic acid has genuine anti-inflammatory action. Prescription-strength formulations (15–20%) are used by dermatologists specifically to treat rosacea. Over-the-counter concentrations (5–10%) provide meaningful but milder benefit for general redness and reactive skin.
Clears and Prevents Blemishes
Its antimicrobial properties inhibit the growth of Cutibacterium acnes (the bacteria that triggers acne) and reduce keratin build-up in pores. Unlike salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide, it does this without significant drying or irritation.
Suitable for Sensitive and Reactive Skin
Azelaic acid is significantly gentler than retinol, glycolic acid and vitamin C. It is suitable for sensitive skin types, reactive skin and those who have struggled with stronger actives. Initial tingling on application is common and usually subsides after a few uses.
How to Add Azelaic Acid to Your Routine
Choosing a Product
Look for serums or creams with 10% azelaic acid for over-the-counter use. Well-regarded options include The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10%, Paula's Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster, and Typology's Azelaic Acid 10% Serum. Prescription-strength versions (Finacea, Skinoren) are available through your GP or a private dermatologist for more significant concerns.
When to Apply It
Azelaic acid can be used morning or evening, or both. It goes after cleanser and toner but before moisturiser. Apply a pea-sized amount to the face and smooth it in gently. If using alongside other actives, here is a simple guide:
- Morning: Cleanser → Azelaic acid → Moisturiser → SPF
- Evening: Cleanser → Azelaic acid → Moisturiser (or swap azelaic acid with retinol on alternate nights)
Pairing With Other Actives
Azelaic acid plays well with most other ingredients. It can be paired with niacinamide (enhances brightening), hyaluronic acid (adds hydration) and SPF (which is essential when treating pigmentation). Avoid layering it with strong exfoliating acids (AHAs/BHAs) in the same routine as this may cause irritation — use them on alternate days instead.
How Long Until You See Results?
For blemishes: 4 to 6 weeks. For hyperpigmentation and redness: 8 to 12 weeks with consistent use. Azelaic acid rewards patience — it works gradually and cumulatively, but the results are real. For more skincare guides, visit our Lifestyle section.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use azelaic acid every day?
Yes. It is gentle enough for daily use, and consistent daily application produces the best results. Start with once daily if you have sensitive skin and build up to twice daily as tolerated.
Is azelaic acid safe during pregnancy?
Yes — azelaic acid is considered safe for use during pregnancy and breastfeeding, making it one of the few evidence-based actives available during this time. Always confirm with your GP or midwife.
Does azelaic acid cause sun sensitivity?
Unlike AHAs, retinol and vitamin C, azelaic acid does not significantly increase photosensitivity. That said, SPF 30 or higher every morning is non-negotiable when treating any form of pigmentation, as UV exposure will undo your progress.
Why does azelaic acid tingle when I apply it?
Mild tingling is a normal initial reaction and typically subsides within a few minutes and after a few days of use. If you experience persistent burning, redness or irritation, reduce frequency or consult a dermatologist.
